Walking Home to Her: A Spring Equinox Pilgrimage to the Hebrides

Walking Home to Her: A Spring Equinox Pilgrimage to the Hebrides

By Alice Sainsbury

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In this guest post, Alice Sainsbury describes her personal pilgrimage from Inverlonan to Lagandorain, Isle of Iona, Hebrides, taken in Spring 2024. Alice is a design consultant, coach and advocate, partnering with global brands and communities to cultivate space for the inclusion of every-body.
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The call to the Hebrides and Iona was not guided by logic, but by an instinctive yearning towards ancient energies and renewal—aligning with the Spring equinox. What began as a planned route along historical paths soon transformed into a deeper pilgrimage, one of self-discovery, hidden truths, and the reclamation of the feminine journey, not just for myself, but for the collective.

Pilgrimages are about more than the physical steps; they invite us to stay open, to let the path reveal what we need to see, and to allow our perspectives to shift. Over the last few years, my pilgrimages have been instrumental in my recovery. They’ve helped me not only accept my chronic condition but adapt to it, connecting me with a deeper sense of self and a renewed relationship with the world.

In 2015, a sudden neurological disease changed everything. Struggling with visible and invisible disabilities, walking again—whether with crutches or unaided—became my daily mission. Every step, no matter how slow, symbolised my journey toward independence. This year, the pull to Iona and the Hebrides felt strong—an instinct I couldn’t ignore. I planned a route that crossed ancient paths, from pagan Neolithic to Christian, and intersected with sacred sites, including the Kings Road in Scotland.

The Spring equinox marked the perfect time to set forth, a moment of balance and renewal, perfectly aligned with the turning of the seasons.

At Inverlonan Estate, just miles from Oban, I took time to reconnect with the land. The estate, steeped in history, was a place of reflection, allowing me to gather my strength before continuing. The energy of the land—both peaceful and unsettling—was palpable. It was here, under the energy of the Spring Solstice, that I felt the land opening up for the next part of my journey, where I would move toward Iona.

As I ventured toward Mull, through storms and boggy terrain, nature itself seemed to guide me. The land offered unexpected wisdom—a herd of deer leading me through the wilderness, a symbol of deep instinct and connection. In the unpredictable weather, there was both challenge and reward, as the pilgrimage mirrored my own journey of overcoming obstacles, one step at a time.

Other sacred sites on the islands, like the Nuns’ Caves on Mull, allowed me to connect with the hidden histories of women—their spiritual roles, long overlooked. The story of St. Columba’s expulsion of women to the Isle of Women, Eileen nam Ban, resonated deeply, highlighting the struggle of the feminine throughout history. These islands are rich with stories of resistance, transformation, and renewal—much like the Spring Solstice itself.

As I neared the end of my pilgrimage, the energy of the Spring Solstice continued to linger, bringing a sense of clarity and renewal. The Nuns' Caves and the landscape of Mull, with its wild beauty, offered a reminder of the feminine power of the earth—both nurturing and fierce. In the midst of this pilgrimage, I came to understand that it wasn’t just about me. It was about the collective journey—the untold stories of women and men alike, the energies that have shaped our shared existence, and the need to reconnect with the earth, the land, and each other.

The collective energy of the feminine has long been a source of healing, wisdom, and balance for all. It represents the nurturing, creative, and intuitive forces that flow through the natural world. Embracing this energy, whether in the body or in nature, is essential for collective well-being. It is a deep connection with the cycles of the earth, the lunar rhythms, and the shifting of seasons, which invite us to reflect, shed the old, and grow anew.

Walking under the Worm Moon—the full moon of early spring—reminded me of the deep connection between our bodies, the natural world, and the lunar cycles. The Worm Moon is a time of shedding, a moment to release the past and embrace new beginnings. As women and men alike walk in tune with nature’s cycles, we find strength and renewal. This moment, this collective embrace of the earth’s energy, offers a reminder that we are all part of a greater whole. It is through our connection with the land, the moon, and the rhythms of nature that we reclaim balance and wholeness.

Then she sang:

There is an island far away, around which sea-horses glisten ...
Begin a voyage across the clear sea, to see if you may reach the land of women ...

Sited in The Britannias An Island Quest By Alice Albinia:  ‘The Voyage of Bran’ Kenneth Jackson’s A Celtic Miscellany

Pilgrimages on other UK islands, like those on the Isles of Scilly, Anglesey, Lindisfarne, Islay and Skye, also offer paths of renewal, as written about in Alice Albinia’s The Britannias: An Island Quest.  These islands invite us to connect with the land, to reflect, and to listen. Like the Spring equinox, these places offer a chance for reinvention, for growth, and for finding our way forward, in alignment with the cycles of nature.

The final leg of my pilgrimage took me to Nc’nean distillery on Mull, a female-led distillery that reflects the nurturing spirit of the land. There, the legacy of Neachneohain, the Gaelic goddess of spirits, spoke to the essence of my journey—embracing strength, independence, and a deep connection with nature.

This pilgrimage has been a journey of healing, discovery, and transformation—not just for me but for all of us. The Spring Solstice marks a time of renewal, and as we walk these paths, we learn to honour the feminine energy that resides in all of us—the collective energy that nurtures and sustains us. The land speaks, and when we stay open, we find our way home.

This pilgrimage has been a journey of healing, discovery, and transformation—not just for me but for all of us. The Spring Solstice marks a time of renewal, and as we walk these paths, we learn to honour the feminine energy that resides in all of us—the collective energy that nurtures and sustains us. The land speaks, and when we stay open, we find our way home.

Photographers: Kathryn Bennett and Beth Chalmers

For more reading

The Britannias: An Archipelago's Tale By Alice Albinia

If Women Rose Rooted: The Power of the Celtic Woman By Sharon Blackie

The Heroine's Journey Woman's Quest for Wholeness By Maureen Murdock

Places to visit

Inverlonan Estate  info@inverlonan.com‍

The Inn at Port nan Gael : https://portnangael.co.uk/inn/

Tomsleibhe Bothy https://www.mountainbothies.org.uk

NC'NEAN DISTILLERY: https://ncnean.com

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Alice's pilgrimage route

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More pilgrimage routes

St Columba's Way: Iona to St Andrews, 261 miles, 1 month

St Conan's Pilgrims Way: Iona to Dalmally, or Dalmally to Iona, 73 miles, 6-7 days