Pilgrimage of Remembrance
11
Nov
,
2024
Inspired by a recent pilgrimage to Norwich Cathedral, BPT's Dawn Champion considers pilgrimage as a practice of remembrance.
If you venture to the Ambulatory of Norwich Cathedral, you'll be met by a series of bright, colourful paintings called The Passion of Edith Cavell: The Way of the Cross. Edith's story of self-sacrifice, compassion and courage was one of many that gave rise to the commemorative traditions of Remembrance Sunday. It is a day for honouring the sacrifices of the armed forces but also civilians who have endured the impacts of conflict of the past, and those who continue to be affected by it today. It is a moment to reflect on courage, resilience, and collective spirit; a moment to renew our commitment to peace. For many, the occasion transcends traditional ceremonies, inspiring pilgrimages to significant sites like memorials and cemeteries. Whether it is a local journey or further afield, these journeys offer a unique space for personal reflection, and time to pay respect in a deeply meaningful manner.
Here are six Remembrance Pilgrimages to inspire a deeper understanding of the enduring need to remember, plus some tips for creating your own local journey.
Norwich Cathedral is the final resting place of wartime nurse Edith Cavell. Celebrated as a pioneer of modern nursing, treating wounded soldiers from both sides without discrimination during the First World War, and for helping some 200 Allied soldiers escape from German-occupied Belgium before being captured and court martialled for "war treason". The night before her execution, she said, "Patriotism is not enough. I must have no hatred or bitterness towards anyone". Norwich Cathedral offers an Edith Cavell 7-mile route from her home in Swardstone to her grave, or pilgrims can choose one of the other 1-Day routes to Norwich.
The Chattri Memorial sits on the hills above Brighton and commemorates 53 Hindu and Sikh men of the Indian Army who died and were cremated at Patcham Down ghat during the First World War. The Old Way pilgrimage route passes by here, or pilgrims can follow the Sussex Border Path from the town via Ewebottom Hill.
Church Island is a small island in the Menai Strait on the shores of Anglesey and home to St Tysilio's, a single-chamber church, with a war memorial near the highest point. Pilgrims might choose to read Ballade by the War Memorial (A Speech that would not be heard on Armistice Day) by Welsh war poet Sir Albert Evans-Jones (Bardic name Cynan), who is buried in the churchyard. The island can be reached by crossing the causeway following part of the Anglesey Druid Way.
The Scottish National War Memorial is found within the walls of Edinburgh Castle. It commemorates all Scots who died while serving in the British Armed Forces, the Merchant Navy, the armed forces of the Dominions, the women's services, and the nursing services, together with all Scottish regiments. Visiting the memorial without seeing the castle is free, although it is recommended to contact the Castle in advance. Pilgrims can use a number of routes to reach Edinburgh, the St Wilfrid’s Way and the St Andrews Way both pass by the castle, and the 1-Day Cathedral route would require a short, easy detour from the cathedral.
The Ukrainian Community Memorial in North Bierley Municipal Cemetery, Bradford was installed in 1988 to mark the millennium of Christianity in Ukraine and also pays tribute to those who gave their lives for their country. It is one of many places in the north of England that reveals the strong Ukrainian community connections, who began to settle in the UK from the 19th Century. It is a poignant place to consider ongoing conflicts. The cemetery can be reached by following the Halifax-Bradford Cathedral Pilgrimage in a Day route.
The Cenotaph in Whitehall, London, is the site of the National Service of Remembrance every November. This annual service commemorates the contribution of all British and Commonwealth military and civilian servicemen and women involved in the two World Wars and later conflicts. Meaning “empty tomb” in Greek, the Cenotaph became a central point for all those whose family and friends had died during the First World War with no known grave, and marked a shift in attitude away from commemorating victory to memorials of loss. With no human figure and no national or religious imagery, it can have meaning for people of all races and of all faiths or none. The Sovereign Line takes pilgrims past the Cenotaph and onwards to Westminster Abbey, the site of the Tomb of the Unknown Warrior. Alternatively take a short detour from the Westminster Way, which will also take you past the Animals in War memorial in Hyde Park as well.
Creating your own local Remembrance Pilgrimage
There are many thousands places of remembrance nationally that are not connected by an existing pilgrimage route, but you can still create your own journey. Walking apps like Outdoor Active or Ordnance Survey have a “snap-to” function which will automatically plot a route to the footpath when you click on specific waypoints. It will default to the shortest route so you might want to experiment with it to choose the best paths. Google’s My Maps works well in satellite mode for route plotting in urban areas where you will be using streets or public parks. Remember to check for other formal services or access permissions to your chosen destination first. There will often be veteran’s services at this time of year which may affect when you are able visit, or give you the opportunity to finish your pilgrimage by joining a service.
If you are walking with a specific person in mind, why not connect together places of significance to their life? The church where they married, the site of their workplace, or even the train station where they returned safely home can all have powerful meaning for your journey.
Almost every village in Great Britain will have a local footpath. Trace it outwards on the map to find a good start point on the map and walk into the village to finish at the local war memorial. Why not join two parishes and walk from one memorial to the other, spending time in nature between the communities. If you can, consider adding a hilltop or ancient tree as a place to pause in contemplation. There may also be remains of wartime infrastructure like old pillbox defensive positions, training grounds or former barracks. These lend an opportunity to consider the lasting impact of conflict on the landscape and our communities.
Consider how you might use ritual objects like candles, flowers, biodegradable cloutie ribbons, a traditional red or white poppy, or simply a pebble, leaf or feather you might find along the way. Charge these with your intention, leave them in a special place or take them home as a reminder of your pilgrimage.
Find poignant readings that resonate with you. This could be the work of a war poet or a regimental song. There may be locally-written poems or folk songs about specific events. You might prefer a blessing or traditional prayer. Find a way to mark the beginning and end of your journey, whether it is shared out loud or kept inside. Mark the end of your pilgrimage with something significant. This could be a moment's silence, lighting a candle, holding of hands or even sharing a sip of drink. Try circumambulating (walking around) your final place several times to put it at the heart of your journey, or simply recite the names of those you wish to honour.
Some song suggestions:
My Boy Jack, Rudyard Kipling / Peter Bellamy. Kipling's moving work touching on mourning, regret and also the importance of sacrifice.
The Lads in their Hundreds, A.E. Housman / George Butterworth. Housman wrote of Second Boer War, but it chimed with Butterworth's experience before he fell in the Somme.
The Weary Cutters, Roud 8772. A Northumbrian song of unknown origin that refers to press gangs, but evokes the strong emotions for any of those left behind as loved ones are committed into service.