Old Way Alternative: Winchester – Chichester – 46 miles, 3 – 4 days

This route omits the coastal walking from Southampton in favour of the South Downs. Beginning in Winchester, famed for its hospitality to pilgrims, the path takes in the prehistoric hill tops of the South Downs Way with diversions for beautiful villages and peaceful parish churches. It connects to the traditional Old Way route at Chichester, passing through the atmospheric Kingley Vale with its Ancient Watcher yew trees.

Transport:

Train: Winchester; Petersfield for transfer to East Meon or South Harting;

Rowlands Castle for transfer to Kingley Vale;

Chichester. Bus: There is a limited bus service (No. 17) connecting Exton to Petersfield and Bishops Waltham. No. 52 or 67 connects Petersfield, East Meon and Winchester.

Taxi: 14U Cars are based in Petersfield and cover Winchester to Chichester, including bag transfers (see below).

Otherwise try Winchester Taxis, Wessex Cars, for Winchester area;

Billy Cars or Duke Taxis for the middle part of the route.  

Havant Cabs, Station Taxis (Chichester)

Accommodation:

Winchester: plenty of options, we recommend 61 for a budget option, the Black Hole, or Hotel du Vin for a more luxurious room near the start point.  

Exton: Crossways B&B. East Meon: Ye Olde George Inn, Pound Orchard B&B. South Downs Eco Lodge is a little off route but links to East Meon with the bus and a short walk.

Chilgrove: Chilgrove Farm B&B.

Chichester: lots of options, we recommend The Witterings for no-frills good value rooms and a warm welcome, or try staying in the Cathedral accommodation at 4 Canon Lane.

Sanctuary is available at St Mary’s in Apuldram, a short bus or taxi journey from the city.

Food:

Winchester: plenty of options, we like the Handlebar cafe for a takeaway lunch before the hills.

Further on try Baker & White, found in Cheesefoot Head carpark most days, or Holden Farm cafe in the summer months.

Exton: The Shoe Inn is closest, or wander south to Meonstoke for groceries and the Bucks Head.

East Meon: Two good pubs, try Isaak Walton for standard pub food or we like the Ye Olde George for local, seasonal fayre.

Basic groceries also available from the village store.

Further on Butser Hill and Queen Elizabeth Country Park both have cafes.

South Harting: La Follia cafe or the White Hart. Further on towards Chilgrove The Royal Oak or The White Horse.

After Kingley Vale good coffee from Design Vintage or Wellies Tea Room.

Baggage Transfers:

South Downs Bag Transfers will cover the South Downs Way parts;

14U Cars are based in Petersfield and cover both South Downs Way as far as Amberley and also down to Chichester.

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Route highlights

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Wayfarer's Dole

Receiving the Wayfarer’s Dole at the Hospital of St Cross in Winchester. Britain’s oldest charitable institution, the dole of bread and ale is for any pilgrim that asks at the porter’s door, and spiritually delicious it is too. A fine way to begin your journey.

Views from the some of the highest hills on the South Downs

The high hills of Old Winchester, Butser and Beacons hills offer views unlike anywhere else in England. Once places of gathering, rest and protection in the prehistoric eras, people have been walking the paths between these points for thousands of years.

Ancient Watcher yew trees

The “Ancient Watcher” yew trees of Kingley Vale are estimated to be amongst the oldest living things in Britain, and form part of one of the finest yew forests in Western Europe. It’s hard not to feel moved by the peaceful stillness and deep magic of these trees.

Location

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