Northern Saints Trail to Durham Cathedral - Way of Life

Northern Saints Trails: The Way of Life – Gainford to Durham – 27 miles, 3 days

Orange line on map below

The route is connected to St Cuthbert’s last journey in his coffin from Ripon to Durham, during which Cuthbert spoke to the monks carrying him whilst dead in the coffin! It begins at St Mary’s Well by the Tees in Gainford before crossing sparsely populated farmland to West Auckland, then the Etherley Incline rail path before meeting the complete Saxon church at Escomb. Bishop Auckland’s museums and its Spanish and Mining art galleries follow, before you come to a wonderful ‘Mount Joy’ view of Durham Cathedral.

Highlights

• Inspired by the stories of the A-Team of Northern Saints
• Lots of route options within a relatively compact geographical area
• County Durham and Northumberland’s open landscapes
• Durham being a keystone of these routes

Holy Places on the Northern Saints Trails that are mentioned in Britain’s Pilgrim Places book:

• ‍‍Hartlepool
• Escomb
• Durham
• Newton Hall / Finchale Priory
• Chester-le-Street
• Monkwearmouth
• Jarrow
• Tynemouth
• Newcastle

Extended description of Escomb to Durham:

The Spanish section of the Camino Ingles begins at the port city of A Coruna where, historically, medieval pilgrims arrived from England. Your 2-day pilgrimage ends at Finchale Priory, where St Godric, who was the first recorded British pilgrim to Santiago, set out from... but first, you begin your journey at the Saxon church of Escomb in Northern England, the oldest complete Saxon church in England, with a circular graveyard (possibly denoting Bronze Age origins), also home to the oldest Sundial in Britain still in its original position and a magical Tree of Life carved into the church wall next to the altar.

Following the flow of the River Wear, you approach Bishop Auckland: a market town and civil parish in County Durham. Within the town is Auckland Castle, once the home to the Prince Bishops of Durham, who were more like Kings (with armies) rather than holy men. The castle houses 12 out of 13 of Francisco de Zurbarán’s “Jacob and his twelve sons” paintings, a series of life-size portraits he painted between 1641 and 1658. The Bishop Auckland restoration (recently powered by Jonathan Ruffer) is a sight to behold in this coal mining district, with the Tower and Miners' Gallery in addition to the new and fabulous art gallery. You collect your Camino Ingles pilgrim stamp at the Tower, and continue on your journey, walking through the Weardale valley alongside Binchester Roman Fort, through Bellburn Wood, now full of bluebells, onward to Durham Cathedral. Along the way in Byers Green was born Thomas Wright, an 18th-century astronomer who was the first to describe the Milky Way. Next in Whitworth, Bobby Shafto of folk song fame was born and buried in Whitworth. The local family was Shafto. Then, maybe (if you ask permission) spend the night in Sunderland Bridge, sleeping in the church. At Mount Joy, after climbing the 224 'Steps of Doom' you first set eyes on your destination.

Arriving at the breathtaking cathedral, you are hit not only by its beauty and looming position, but its history and story creation too. Holding no less than three copies of the Magna Carta, Durham Cathedral is also the home of the Shrine of St Cuthbert and the Venerable Bede. Cuthbert lived as a monk, bishop, and then hermit, on Holy Island, Lindisfarne, and became a saint in 698. He is the North of England’s best-loved saint and was loved by animals too. Fleeing Lindisfarne after a Viking invasion in 793, the monks transported his incorruptible body and extraordinary relics for years, finally settling in Durham because his coffin got stuck in the mud, and a monk had a dream, which were both considered signs. (Learn more about St Cuthbert on the Durham Cathedral Pilgrimage in a Day route page.)

From Durham, you walk the Weardale Way past a maximum security prison for the most serious criminals to the spectacular ruins of Finchale Priory, where the 12th-century pirate-turned-hermit Godric lived for 60 years, praying in the River Wear and rescuing stags. He also channelled songs composed by the Virgin Mary in his dreams!

Hear BPT’s Guy singing his 'Sainte Marie' song during a BPT guided pilgrimage at Finchale Priory. This is the oldest song in England where words and music are next to each other.

This is where Godric made one of the earliest recorded pilgrimages from England to Santiago in Northern Spain and where your journey ends. Perhaps get in the River and wash off the journey, remembering the intention with which you started your pilgrimage.

This article by Guy Hayward first appeared in the Jul/Aug 2024 edition of Idler Magazine.