Cornish Saints' Way: Padstow to Fowey Pilgrimage

The Cornish Saints’ Way: Padstow to Fowey – 27 miles, 3 days

This way traverses Cornwall from its rugged north coast to the gentler shores of the south. Part of the longer Cornish Celtic Way, this route echoes the footsteps of early Christian travellers journeying from Ireland and Wales to Brittany and beyond. For those seeking a slower, more contemplative pace, the 3-day Saints Way is an ideal antidote to the rush of modern life.

The trail owes its existence to a serendipitous discovery in 1984, when walkers stumbled upon a forgotten series of granite stiles. This sparked the recreation of an ancient route that includes medieval churches, quintessential footbridges, and centuries-old tracks. Known also as the Mariner’s Way, it was used by early Celtic traders and pilgrims who braved the treacherous waters of the Irish and English Channels in wooden coracles. By cutting across Cornwall, they avoided the perilous rocks, fierce currents, and pirates lurking around Land’s End.

Beginning at the 15th-century church of St Petrock in Padstow is appropriate as Petrock is one of Cornwall’s most venerated saints, known for his travelling missionary work. From here, the path climbs onto the St Breock Downs, where you’ll encounter a monolithic standing stone that hums with ancient vibes. 

The Saints Way meanders through the heart of Cornwall, passing Lanivet, the county’s geographical centre. Here, the 15th-century church of St Nivet beckons pilgrims and casual walkers alike (although, what’s the difference between a walker and a pilgrim really?). The name ‘Lanivet’ carries layers of meaning: it refers to both a ‘church site’ and a ‘pagan sacred place,’ demonstrating how Christianity and older spiritual practices intertwined back then.

Further along, you’ll ascend to the Helman Tor nature reserve. This rocky outcrop offers sweeping views over the marshy Red Moor, a sanctuary for birdwatchers and lovers of unspoiled landscapes. Helman Tor’s craggy presence feels almost theatrical, a stage set for stories of hermits and holy men.

The route continues to Lanlivery, where you’ll find the medieval St Brevita Church and the 12th-century Crown Inn. Remarkably, the inn has remained in continuous use for nearly a millennium and is still the original building, its ancient walls holding the memory of countless tales of travellers, from medieval merchants to modern pilgrims.

As the trail nears its end, you’ll arrive at Golant, a charming riverside village with literary and mythical connections. Kenneth Grahame, author of The Wind in the Willows, is said to have drawn inspiration from the area for his Tales of the Riverbank. Golant’s St Sampson’s Church and Holy Well carry their own sense of magic. According to legend, this is the site of the wedding between King Mark and Iseult, whose tragic love story led to the enduring myth of Tristan and Iseult, which arguably inspired the modern myth of romance.

The journey concludes as you follow the river to its mouth at Fowey Harbour, a place alive with maritime history. From here, medieval pilgrims would have boarded ships bound for Brittany, embarking on the next leg of their pilgrimage. Fowey’s bustling charm is a fitting end to the walk, offering a sense of completion while still carrying the promise of horizons yet to be explored.

Article first appeared in Idler magazine.

Highlights

• St Breock Downs Monolith
• Helman Tor Nature Reserve
• 900 year-old pub in Lanlivery, still going…
• Kenneth Grahame’s beloved village of Golant
• Picturesque Fowey Harbour

Holy Places along route listed in our book Britain’s Pilgrim Places: Constantine Bay; Golant.

The Saint’s Way is covered by the OS Explorer sheets 106 and 107 and the Landranger sheets 200 and 204.

Access by rail requires changing at Liskeard for stations to Lostwithiel and Fowey.

Leave the A30 at Bodmin for Padstow.

There are a number of accommodation options along the route including a youth hostel in Golant. An alternative route (covering the last 11 miles) is followed along Cornish Celtic Way through Luxulyan, St Blazey and Tywardreath site of a medieval priory.