St Vigeans Museum and Church, St Vigeans

A pilgrim’s journey into the mysteries of Pictish culture is on offer at this site, which also lies a mile to the west of St Duthac’s Way as it passes through Arbroath

Highlights

• Museum of Pictish stones
• Possible burial site of St Vigean

St Vigeans’ church is made of bright red stone and perches on a steep hill in the northern outskirts of Arbroath. It stands out in other ways too. It was one of the earliest major shrines in Scotland—second only to St Andrews itself, according to the museum’s guide when I visited.

It is a bold claim, but one that the collection of 38 stone sculptures goes a long way towards justifying. Fragments of the saint’s supposed shrine are among the treasures now cared for by Historic Scotland in the museum, which is opposite the church. It was open when I turned up and busy, but has since closed to casual visitors, so appointments need to be booked.

St Vigean himself was an Irish monk who died in 664 and is remembered on 20 January. He is called St Fechin in Ireland but is remembered here by his Latin name. How and when he ended up on the east coast of Scotland remains a mystery, but the large number of fine stone monuments indicates a significant Christian community by the early 9th century, if not before. The sculptures and place name are strong evidence that the saint’s relics were kept here.

The Drostan Stone

The Drostan Stone is the most famous exhibit, a cross-slab with animal carvings and inscriptions. The name Drostan possibly refers to St Drostan of Aberdour. Other sculptures include a fragment thought to be from St Vigean’s elaborate shrine, along with vivid crosses, hunting scenes, and saintly images in surprisingly good condition. The stones were found in and around the church during a 19th-century restoration and were moved into the museum for safe-keeping. You’re not supposed to touch or photograph the stones, so the church provides a better space for reflection.

Nothing from the early church or monastic building survives in the current church fabric, which is 12th century and later. However, it’s worth remembering that the site might well contain the relics of St Vigean himself, buried somewhere beneath the layers of church rebuilding and reform.

Directions

St Vigeans Museum

Kirkstyle, St Vigeans, Arbroath DD11 4RB

www.historic-scotland.gov.uk (search for Vigeans)

W3W: flows.trade.scout

GPS: 56.5770N 2.5903W

You need to make an appointment to visit the museum, although it might be open one Saturday a month (check website). St Vigeans is 1 mile north of Arbroath town centre, signposted off the A92 heading towards Montrose, or the A933 heading towards Forfar. The museum is less visible than the hilltop church but faces the hill in one of the cottages on Kirkstile Cottages Road. Opening is managed by staff at Arbroath Abbey, tel: 01241 878756. Visitors to the museum can also borrow a key to see the church itself.