St Nicholas Church, Compton

The church stands at the centre of a pilgrimage village, a major stopping point on the Pilgrims Way from Winchester to Canterbury, a few minutes' detour from the main path

Highlights

• Intact anchorite cell
• Unique split chancel
• Saxon church building

An important saint was once venerated here, if the layout of the church is anything to go by. The sanctuary is a unique double-deck structure, split in two by a gallery. The twin altars sit one above the other. We can only guess at the purpose of this peculiar arrangement. It might have something to do with pilgrims.

Compton was a major stopping point on the famous Winchester to Canterbury pilgrimage, as a former pilgrim’s hostel in the village illustrates (it is now a private home). Perhaps an important relic was held in the upper storey of the chancel. Alternatively, the gallery could have been a viewing platform for pilgrims venerating a relic down below.

The church clearly provided something out of the ordinary to inspire the faithful on their journey to Canterbury. A relic is the most likely explanation, but even so, the precise operation of the two-storey altars remains a mystery. It is the only surviving example of a split chancel in England, so there is simply nothing to compare it to.

The former anchorite cell, on the other hand, sheds considerable light on a disused feature of medieval worship. It is located on the south wall of the chancel, on your right as you stand in front of the high altar. An anchorite would be walled up in this tiny room for the rest of his or her natural life. In between long periods of prayer and contemplation, the anchorite would issue advice to visitors through a small window. The cell has been modified over the years, but Compton is one of the few places in England where you can get a feel for the constraints of an anchorite’s world. St Julian of Norwich is the most famous example but her cell is a modern reconstruction.

A cruciform squint looks out from the cell at Compton’s high altar, allowing the anchorite to contemplate the host – the Eucharistic bread and wine. The technical term for this little window is a hagioscope. It is very moving to realize that the heavy wooden sill in front of the squint has been worn through by the elbows of devoted anchorites. It is possible to rest your arms today in the same position and contemplate an anchorite’s lifetime horizon.

Another famous anchorite lived in the nearby church of St James at Shere, 7 miles east of Compton. Christine Carpenter was enclosed there for three years until 1332 when she abandoned her cell. Within a few months, she changed her mind again and begged to be re-enclosed, repenting her ‘nefarious sin’ of absconding. Back at Compton, there is no record of any of the anchorites’ names: the church subsumed their identities completely.

A modern staircase fitted inside the anchorite cell gives access to the mysterious upper chancel, although it had a bicycle lock closing the access gate when I last visited. This top storey still serves as a functioning if rather compact chapel, overlooking the main church. The wooden railing is worth a second look. It is Norman and thought to be the oldest piece of decorative woodwork in England. Carved from a single piece of timber, the builders clearly went to great lengths to ensure the top chancel was visible from downstairs.

The church itself has a late Saxon frame, comprising the tower and east chancel wall, while much of the rest is 11th and 12th century. There is an unusual image of a medieval knight carved inside the curve of the chancel arch, by the pulpit. It is thought to be the graffiti of a Norman crusader celebrating his exploits.

The church has previously had a 72-page book for sale devoted to this church, but it was out of print on my last visit. This was the first site I visited for this project in 2007, and also the last in March 2020. A mere 13 years is nothing in the life of these venerable holy places, Compton’s charms undimmed in any way.

In the image below, a squint window in the anchorite cell looks towards Compton’s altar. Hours innumerable were spent at prayer in here, the wooden sill and stonework underneath eroded y centuries of use as a prayer desk. Praying here today reveals why the left elbow has left a much deeper mark, because you need to be at an angle to the wall in order to face the altar directly.

Directions

St Nicholas Church, The Street, ComptonGU3 1EB (postcode near the church car park)

www.comshackpep.co.uk

W3W: catch.detection.flattery

GPS: 51.2143N 0.6349W

Compton is just south of Guildford, less than a mile off the A3. Heading south from Guildford, pass the A31 junction and then take the next turn-off, the B3000 into Compton. The church is on the right as you drive through the village, half hidden by trees. Look out for an antique shop on your left and a small red postbox: the church car park is signposted next to these, on the opposite side of the road to the church. The church is open during the day 10 am–6 pm or dusk if earlier.

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