St Mary's Well, Uwchmynydd

A pilgrim’s consolation if rough seas prevent travel to holy Bardsey Island

Highlights

• Holy well in sea cliffs

At the very tip of the Llyn peninsula, directly opposite Bardsey Island, a curious well nestles under a cliff. Curious, because this freshwater spring emerges just above the high tide mark, and is often filled with salt water by crashing waves. Pilgrims would come and bathe here before setting off to Bardsey Island. The well water collects in a very narrow cleft in the rock. It is about a metre deep, which makes bathing here possible – in theory at least. But this is not the best place to revive ancient Christian practice by any means, so dangerous is the access along a slippery narrow ledge under the cliffs.

Indeed as I stood beside the well and took pictures, a huge wave soaked me and my camera through to the core. I ran back to safety and watched horrified as an even bigger wave pounded the rocky hollow where I had been standing. It would have knocked me into

the sea, not a recommended method of trying to reach Bardsey Island two miles offshore especially if the ferries haven’t sailed for three days due to rough weather.

Unless you visit at low tide on a calm day it is better simply to contemplate the well from the rocks nearby, and gaze across the water at Bardsey Island.

If in need of safe access to holy water, another well lies just outside Aberdaron directly on the way to Uwchmynydd. Ffynnon Saint is buried in undergrowth and hidden under a heavy metal cover. It has lost much of its atmosphere but was used by pilgrims on their way to the tip of the Llyn peninsula. As you drive out of Aberdaron along the steep coastal road, the well is signed at the first crossroads, half a mile out of town as you head towards Uwchmynydd.

Directions

Path starts from National Trust car park, Uwchmynydd LL53 8BY (postcode for Uwchmynydd)

W3W: dunes.totally.shuffles

GPS: 52.7921N 4.7612W

Directions: Drive through Uwchmynydd and keep going towards the end of the peninsula. The road enters open countryside, and there is a large grassy parking area just after the road turns back inland. Park here and walk back down the road to the wide valley, more of a gentle fold between two broad grassy slopes. Bardsey Island is visible offshore. Walk along the path at the bottom of this valley. A tiny muddy trickle of water runs along it near the end, about 50m before you reach the sea. At this point head right, uphill, to a parallel path about 20m away. Follow that down to the rocky seashore. The holy well is visible on your right, 5m away up a short rocky ledge.

The entire walk takes about 10 minutes from the car park.