St Ishmael’s Church, St Ishmaels, Wales

A remote church tucked down a little lane, St Ishmael’s is one of the oldest active places of worship in the area, a short detour for pilgrims walking the Southern Way of St David

‍Highlights

• Church founded by St Ishmael
• Possible site of St Caradoc’s hermitage

This church is one of the oldest stone buildings still in use by a Welsh parish and certainly looks the part. It is tucked away in a wooded valley, seemingly a remote spot but once the home of St Ishmael, who became the second bishop of St Davids around 589.

It is a low building dating from the 11th century, with a short bell tower at one end, hidden by the trees and steep slopes of the little valley. The bay at the end, 350m downhill, is called Monk Haven, in memory of the Celtic monastic community.

St Ishmael was trained by St David and served here for a while before succeeding his former teacher at St Davids Cathedral (previous listing, page 500). It is possible that this little church was even the seat of a minor bishop, overseeing a number of dependent churches in the region.

The church is half a mile south of St Ishmaels village. There were icons displayed throughout the church when I visited, a pleasing echo of worship that matched its ancient walls. A collection of carved stones can be seen in the nave, some dating back to the 9th century.

A second, much later saint is also connected with the community here. St Caradoc was a Welsh monk in the early 12th century, who retreated to a chapel of St Ishmael towards the end of his life and died there. The chapel is either this one at St Ishmaels or another at Haroldston, 6 miles to the north. St Caradoc is buried at St Davids.

Directions‍

St Ishmael’s Church

St Ishmaels SA62 3TH

W3W: frail.fulfilled.vent

GPS: 51.7173N 5.1426W‍

From St Ishmaels village, turn right off the main road just after Brook Inn, heading south. After 500m, turn left at the T-junction and the church is 400m along here, with a parking area under the trees alongside. It is open during the day.