St Gwynhoedl’s Church, Llangwnnadl

Another Celtic highlight on the Lleyn Pilgrims Trail, Llangwynnadl’s ancient church contains the shrine of a pioneering missionary saint who laboured on the Llyn

Highlights

• Grave of St Gwynhoedl
• Original Celtic burial stone
• Replica saint’s handbell, icon
  

A pioneering missionary, St Gwynhoedl was one of the first saints to build a church on the Llyn peninsula in the 6th century. Fittingly enough, he is one of very few to remain in his original grave, which is to the left of the main altar. Pilgrims visited his shrine in their thousands at the peak of pilgrimages to Bardsey Island. The shrine itself was later dismantled.

A tall pillar was found near the church in 1833, inscribed with what might be the saint’s name in Latin, Vendesetl. It was taken to the Ashmolean Museum in Oxford, but has since returned to the area, displayed at the Plas Glyn y Weddw arts centre (www.oriel.org.uk) 10 miles away.

Back in the church, the carving on the pillar beside St Gwynhoedl’s grave is also written in Latin, but keeps the Welsh spelling: “Gwynhoedliacet hic.” Even with the most basic grasp of Latin, there can be no doubt about his burial place.

Donations left by pilgrims paid for the church to be extended in the early 16th century, which is why it is wide enough to fit three altars along the east wall. There was an attractively stylised form of icon beside the left-hand altar near his grave, depicting the saint carrying a candle. It is inspired by the saint’s name, which translates as ‘life of light.’

There are two other objects linked to the saint in this church, such is the strength of his presence here. His original gravestone is embedded in the south wall just past the window, a few steps to your right when you enter the church. It is marked with a rough cross picked out in faint red paint. The rock is easy to identify because it is so much larger than the other stones in the wall. Experts believe the cross was carved in the 6th century and lay hidden behind plaster until restoration work in 1940.

The third link to St Gwynhoedl is his handbell, although the church only has a replica on display. The original has been dated back to the saint’s time and is on display in the National Museum Cardiff.‍

St Gwynhoedl’s Church, Llangwnnadl, near Pwllheli LL53 8NN

W3W: wink.flickers.jumbled

GPS: 52.8667N 4.6624W

Drive south-west along the B4417 from Tudweiliog. After 5 miles, look for the sign on the right to Llangwnnadl and Porth Colmon. The church is just under ½ mile along here on the right, next to the road. Its gate is marked Ty Dduw in white letters, House of God. It is open daily.

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