St Gwyndaf’s Church and Well, Llanwnda

This peaceful church and holy well lie near the start of the lengthy Celtic Way and are also visited by the Northern Way of St David‍

Highlights

• ‍‍Church founded by St Gwyndaf
• Holy well
• Celtic carvings

St Gwyndaf found a fine view on the north Pembrokeshire coast and stayed. He was a Breton by birth, a Celtic missionary who built his church overlooking the Atlantic swell. The local congregation has worshipped here ever since. The building feels ancient but well-preserved, thanks to a sensitive restoration programme in 1881.

A collection of six carved Celtic stones dotted around the church’s medieval walls are the best monument to St Gwyndaf’s Celtic settlement. The stones, dating from the 7th to the 9th centuries, include a serene face beneath a St Andrew’s Cross (an X-shape) which is said to represent either a woman, a monk, or Christ as ruler of the world. It can be seen in the end wall of the south aisle – turn left as you leave through the porch and walk around the corner.

The 13th-century writer Gerald of Wales served at Llanwnda as priest for a time. St Gwyndaf’s holy well is very near, but as so often in Britain nearly impossible to find: “A short distance to the south of the churchyard” was the most detailed description on offer. The well is actually hidden beneath bushes in a little clump of trees on the other side of a road, 60m southwest of the church (see directions below). It is impossible to see until you are almost standing on it.

This little pool of water trickles into a stone chamber. St Gwyndaf perhaps used this for baptism during his mission here. He eventually retired to Bardsey Island, where he was buried among the island’s saints.The church once housed an ancient chalice, but it was stolen by a French soldier during an attempted invasion in 1797. This assault is the last time Britain was invaded by a foreign army – an ambitious attempt by just 1,400 soldiers which culminated in the rather brief Battle of Fishguard two days later.

Directions‍

St Gwyndaf’s Church

Llanwnda SA64 0HX

W3W: after.hurtles.hoot

GPS: 52.0160N 5.0149W (church)

W3W: scar.scrub.clocking

GPS: 52.0155N 5.0153W (well)‍

The church is at the end of the road in the village and is open during the day. To find the holy well, leave the churchyard gate and look across the road to your right to a small clump of trees and bushes. Enter this enclosure, and the holy well is tucked away in the middle.