Portsmouth Cathedral

The Pilgrim’s Trail from Winchester Cathedral offers a two-day walk to this medieval building, which also has a one-day pilgrimage route from nearby Portchester Castle

The Cathedral of Portsmouth was once a medieval church and remains dedicated to St Thomas Becket. St Thomas Becket certainly left his mark on southern England, a legacy put to productive use in the city of Portsmouth when it converted a medieval church to cathedral status in 1927.

The building remains dedicated to the martyred archbishop, giving Portsmouth’s cathedral the slightly unusual distinction of having a different city in its formal name: the Cathedral Church of St Thomas of Canterbury.

For many reasons, it also calls itself the Cathedral of the Sea. Appropriate for its maritime setting, this is also a building that has helped the people of Portsmouth navigate many major events, including considerable naval activity during the second world war when the city suffered heavy bombing. One such raid killed my own grandfather on his ship while it was in port.

A light and airy building that has been much extended since its elevation to cathedral status, major construction work finally came to an end in 1991. The chancel at the heart of the cathedral’s devotional life is part of the original medieval building, as are the transepts. The rest has been sensitively designed to complement the older structure, with pleasing whitewashed walls setting off the stonework. In like manner the modern stone font is actually based on a 9th century Greek Orthodox design, another seamless blend of ancient and modern.

Of particular interest for the pilgrim today are the devotional artworks, including a brightly coloured painting by naval artist William Lionel Wyllie depicting the miraculous catch of fish recorded in the Gospels. Underlining the military significance of this city, it was painted in memory of the artist’s son, who was killed in the first world war.

The city also has an ancient spiritual pedigree thanks to the nearby Portchester Castle, a remarkably well preserved Roman fort. Although the original fort here was built by the rather unholy emperor Diocletian, the man who unleashed the worst persecutions on Christianity, this ancient site contains a fascinating medieval church in one corner. St Mary’s dates back to the 12th century and might be on the site of an earlier wooden church; missionaries were generally keen to attach themselves to the impressive remains of imperial power, as at Burgh Castle and Holyhead. A one-day pilgrimage route runs from the castle to Portsmouth Cathedral, fittingly concluding with a short ferry journey across the sea from Gosport.

The city is also home to a Roman Catholic cathedral a mile to the north, dedicated to St John the Evangelist.

Directions

Portsmouth Cathedral, High Street, Old Portsmouth PO1 2HH

www.portsmouthcathedral.org.uk ‍

W3W: stick.island.shot

GPS: 50.7903N 1.1043W

Portsmouth Harbour railway station 900m. The cathedral is just south of the main harbour and the many visitor attractions of Gunwharf Quays. It is open daily 7:45am–6:45pm.