Govan Old Parish Church

The Whithorn Way and St Ninian’s Way pass a couple of hundred metres to the south, handily complemented for pilgrim travel by the Govan Subway station

Highlights

• Shrine tomb of St Constantine
• Early Celtic, Pictish and Viking carvings
• 5th-century Christian burials

Govan Old Church has no equal when it comes to evoking the mysteries of Scottish Christianity. It has the best-preserved Celtic shrine, an enchanting collection of pagan/Christian crossover artworks, and evidence of Christian burials dating from the late 5th century.

Surrounded by all these artefacts, it is hardly surprising that one church minister, George MacLeod, felt inspired to pack in his regular job and rebuild the ancient abbey of Iona in the 1930s. Govan Old Church is therefore unique: a cornerstone in the birth and the rebirth of Celtic spirituality in Scotland.

Its first Christian burials, uncovered by archaeologists in the churchyard, date from around 50 years before St Columba arrived in the country. This suggests Govan has origins in the late Roman era, like Whithorn 70 miles to the south (page 543).

The pagan symbols on its collection of ancient carved stones speak of yet another influence, local Pictish religion. The Sun Stone has a rudimentary swastika-style device made of snakes on one side and a peculiar Celtic cross on the other, with serpents coiled next to its stem.

Despite the church’s name, the building itself is relatively recent, having been completed in 1888. It is thought to be the fifth church on the site. A display in the baptistery shows how it might have developed over the centuries. It also demonstrates just how important this foundation is: a site of worship in continuous use since the early 6th century.

Its Christian community continues to develop, and is now in the hands of a community trust that cherishes its faith heritage. In recent years it has offered space to the local Russian Orthodox community, which particularly reveres the shrine tomb of St Constantine.

The saint himself is possibly 6th century, a companion of St Kentigern, or possibly a much later local king. Later medieval records contain a few passing references to kings and missionaries of this name. A 14th-century history by John of Fordun, a priest based in Aberdeen, describes him as a local king who died and was buried here. The name certainly indicates a royal pedigree, following the Roman emperor Constantine the Great.

The sarcophagus itself leaves no doubt that an important saint was venerated in Govan. It dates from the 10th or 11th century, a magnificent piece of carving with much detail sharply preserved. One side appears to show a hunting scene. It is no doubt a coincidence, but another 6th-century saint, the Cornish king St Constantine, was converted while chasing down a stag.

Other evidence of early Christianity is unmissable, from the circular shape of the graveyard to its collection of 31 engraved stones. These were all found buried in the churchyard and are now safely housed throughout the church building. In addition to the pagan-style snakes, there are also Celtic and Viking influences to be seen, from rough-and-ready early works to some intricate Christian knotwork crosses and eternity symbols.

The church has a short service at 10am daily, and is open daily from April to October. One of George McCleod’s successors as minister, Rev Dr Moyna McGlynn, was instrumental in establishing the community trust which now manages the church, cementing its long-term place at the heart of Govan. She provided much inspiration and guidance for this very book, much missed since her death in August 2016.

This part of Glasgow has a history of deprivation but is undergoing regeneration. Govan’s old church has an obvious part to play: in one sense, this is Scotland’s richest parish.

Directions

Govan Old Parish Church, 866 Govan Road, Govan, Glasgow, Strathclyde G51 3AQ

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GPS: 55.8646N 4.3129W

Govan Subway station 250m

The church is open to visitors from 1 April to 31 October 1pm–4pm. It is also open on weekdays throughout the year for a short prayer service at 10am. The church is set back from the main road. From Govan Subway station, come out on to Govan Road and turn left. The path to the church is on the opposite side of the road after 200m.