Exeter Cathedral, St Sidwell's Church, Exeter

A one-day pilgrimage walk from Newton St Cyres, or two days from Crediton, finishes at Exeter’s glorious collection of medieval art and architecture

‍Highlights

• Extensive medieval artwork in cathedral
• Roman-era Christian site
• St Sidwell’s former shrine, site of martyrdom

Exeter Cathedral is a wonderful place to lose yourself for an hour or two. Its medieval religious artwork is some of the best preserved and most extensive in Britain. Though it lacks anything specifically holy, such as a shrine, Exeter Cathedral stands on the site of a Roman Christian foundation. By the end of the 4th century, Exeter was home to one of England’s 24 bishops, according to Celtic Sites and their Saints.

A holy well in the churchyard was dedicated to St Martin, the Roman-era martyr. There was also a church dedicated to the same saint here. Despite searching the churchyard and asking in the cathedral, I have to conclude this well is missing, presumed lost, along with all other traces of Exeter’s Roman Christianity.

The cathedral is dedicated to St Peter. Numerous wall paintings and other artworks survive throughout the building, which was begun in 1133 and completed around 1400. A late medieval altarpiece is displayed at the east end of the nave, its carved and gilded figures jostling alongside serene icon-like panels of God the Father and the Blessed Virgin.

At the far end of the building, the east window has an image of St Sidwell, Exeter’s martyred saint. She is on the left of the middle row of figures holding a scythe, the instrument of her execution.

The Victorian-era pulpit has been carved with other famous martyrs. It includes St Boniface of Crediton, executed during his mission to Frisia. St Boniface studied in Exeter before heading to Germany in the 8th century. Also depicted is John Coleridge Patterson, an Anglican missionary who was murdered in the Solomon Islands in 1871. He is one of the Anglican church’s most recent martyrs.

Leaving the cathedral on a cheerful note, the clock that inspired the nursery rhyme ‘Hickory Dickory Dock’ is in the south transept. It was plagued by mice eating the fat used to grease the mechanism. There is a hole in the clock tower door to enable a cat to chase away the naughty rodents. One of the best surviving wall paintings can be seen to its right.

Outside the cathedral, the great west front has a vast array of stone statues depicting kings, angels, bishops, and saints. This company of heaven greets congregants and visitors as they pass on their way to worship or admire.‍

St Sidwell’s Church‍

Exeter once had another very famous holy site, just outside the old city walls. St Sidwell’s shrine stood in a medieval church here, but it has been replaced by a modern church building. And like the cathedral, it too had a holy well – although this one is now housed inside a vegan cafe.

The church is near the location where St Sidwell was martyred in the 6th century. Where drops of her blood fell, the holy well sprang up, famous for its powers of healing. She was killed by farm labourers bearing scythes, at the instigation of her wicked stepmother.

The story bears a close resemblance to that of St Juthwara, sometimes said to be her sister. The original church held St Sidwell’s relics and became an important centre for pilgrims. Records of pilgrimage date as far back as the year 1000 and continue right up to the Reformation.

Remains of the holy well were rediscovered during recent building work nearby and can now be seen inside a vegan cafe called Rabbit, a short walk away at 3 Well Street. There is almost no trace of the medieval church itself, other than the churchyard, which is on a busy road on the east side of the city.

It would be unfair to claim the site lacks all spiritual context since an arcade of shops alongside has a modern relief sculpture of the saint. She is depicted with a scythe and her holy well, scene of so many healing miracles; there is an NHS walk-in centre directly underneath.

Directions‍

Exeter Cathedral, 1 The Cloisters, Exeter EX1 1HS‍

www.exeter-cathedral.org.uk‍

W3W: basin.soon.police

GPS: 50.7226N 3.5306W‍

St Sidwell’s Church, Sidwell Street, Exeter EX4 6NN

W3W: rise.pizza.flash

GPS: 50.7268N 3.5248W

Exeter Central railway station 500m to cathedral‍

Directions:‍

The cathedral is in the middle of town. At the time of research, its entrance fee was £7.50 for adults, £6 for concessions, and free for all children in family groups. It is open every day, with precise times shown online.

St Sidwell’s Church is on Sidwell Street, half a mile north-east of the cathedral. It was closed when I visited. The image of St Sidwell is easy to spot above the shops by the churchyard entrance.

Rabbit Vegan Cafe is at 3 Well St, Exeter EX4 6QR: www.rabbitvegancafe.co.uk.