Dorchester Abbey, Dorchester-on-Thames

Dorchester is blessed by two pilgrim routes, the destination for a St Birinus pilgrimage from Churn Knob and start of a one-day walk to Oxford

Highlights

• St Birinus’ shrine and abbey church
• Ancient stained-glass image

It takes only a small leap of faith to believe you are in the presence of St Birinus at this vast church, so redolent are its walls and artworks with ancient sanctity. But we do not know whether his holy body lies near his reconstructed shrine, which stands in the south choir aisle. The magnificent building around him speaks eloquently of the esteem in which he was held from the 7th century onwards. The church became rich on the proceeds of mass pilgrimage to his tomb. You can visit the same tomb today, following its restoration in the 1960s with pieces of the original 14th-century marble.

A medieval mystery hangs over the fate of St Birinus’ actual relics. We know that he was initially buried at Dorchester-on-Thames but taken to Winchester 10 years later. His relics were venerated there and translated within that cathedral on at least two occasions. Then, in the early 13th century, Dorchester inexplicably claimed that the relics were in its possession after all. A lengthy inquiry by the archbishop of Canterbury, Stephen Langton, gave Dorchester the benefit of the doubt. Soon pilgrims came flocking to visit St Birinus’ shrine here, bringing sufficient donations to enlarge the church.

Dubious though the history is, the shrine is at least on the site of St Birinus’ actual church, and he was definitely buried here for a short time after his death. The shrine now stands in the middle of a large chapel, which is used by different Christian denominations. A modern mosaic at the base of the shrine shows the saint performing a baptism. St Birinus was famous for the number of converts he baptised during his 15-year mission as the Apostle of Wessex.

This huge building is a parish church today, dedicated to St Peter and St Paul rather than St Birinus. The church’s attitude towards its saintly founder is clearly respectful, but a little confusing. An Orthodox icon of Christ stands next to St Birinus’ shrine, but there is none of the saint himself. There is no candlestand either. Most confusing of all, the church guide describes the shrine as a memorial to a 20th-century suffragan bishop of Dorchester, Gerald Allen.

Near the shrine is a famous 13th-century sculpture of a knight drawing his sword. Its threatened energy is palpable and contrasts oddly with the knight’s recumbent position. This is the memorial of a man who is dead, but his effigy appears to be in denial. Henry Moore, the 20th-century sculptor, was influenced by it. More marvels are found in the St Birinus Chapel. This is in the north choir aisle – the opposite side of the chancel to his shrine.

Set in the far window is one of the oldest stained-glass scenes made in England, the figures glowing vividly against their deep-blue background. Fittingly enough, the subject is St Birinus himself giving a blessing. He is labelled as BERNIUS at the bottom of the roundel. It was made around 1225–50. Only the scenes at Canterbury Cathedral and Twycross in Leicestershire are probably older.

There is more 13th-century stained glass set in the backs of the sedilia, the stone seats in the chancel’s south wall. Much more eloquent artwork is found throughout this building, including a 14th-century mural of Christ in agony on the cross, at the end of the right-hand nave aisle. The medieval chancel windows are an early form of mixed media, a hybrid of carved stonework and stained-glass scenes that interweave their characters. A lead font, cast around 1170, is one of England’s finest. The abbey sells a colour guide to the many highlights.

St Birinus is also commemorated in local veneration at Church Knob, a place where he preached on a hillside 8 miles to the south. He has saints' days on 3 December (the date of his death in 650) and 4 September, the date of his translation.

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Directions

The Abbey Church of St Peter and St Paul, Henley Road, Dorchester-on-Thames OX10 7HH 

www.dorchester-abbey.org.uk

W3W: saved.sidelined.funded

GPS: 51.6436N 1.1646W

The church is at the southern end of town, on a bend in the main road, called Henley Road, just before it crosses the River Thames. It is 8 miles south of Oxford city centre, and of course not to be confused with the larger Dorchester in Dorset. It is open every day.