Chapel Finian, St Finian’s Well, Mochrum

This little chapel is a couple of miles west of the official routes of both the 250-mile St Ninian’s Way and the shorter Whithorn Way, a detour into the 9th century

Highlights

• Holy well of St Finian
• Ruins of medieval chapel

Almost omitted from this book’s research because the well was said to be dry, I found a couple of inches of water in it. There are no promises for the future however: I visited after torrential rain.

A modern stone wall divides the ruined chapel from the A747 coast road. For some reason, the wall was built over the end of the rectangular well chamber, but enough remains to suggest a pool deep enough for baptism, and perhaps full immersion. The well is a few steps away from the ruined buildings.

The chapel was dedicated to St Findbar, a 6th-century saint from Ireland. Historic Scotland’s panel claims this was a landing site for Irish pilgrims on their way to Whithorn, 12 miles away. It would, however, be a shorter and more logical sea crossing to land next to Whithorn itself.

A chapel on a pilgrim path running beside the coast seems a more obvious explanation – the last stop before Whithorn. It was built in the 9th century, perhaps on the site of an earlier wooden church.

The holy pool could be brought back to life one day. When I went to cross myself from the shallow pool, there was a loud sound of rushing water underground. I think the source is still here but diverted from gathering in the ancient well, as at other holy wells in Scotland (Inchberry).

The road beside the well had flooded into a deep puddle. Two cars and then a lorry soaked me in spray from their wheels as I tried to cross myself three times with the holy water. This is a liturgical innovation too far: I hope the spring water is diverted back where it belongs. Historic Scotland is unlikely to act by itself however; Celtic holy wells are something of an undervalued resource.

Directions‍

Chapel Finian, A747, Mochrum DG8 9RT (area postcode only)

W3W: pillow.tape.sapping

GPS: 54.8056N 4.6802W

The well and chapel are on the A747 coast road, roughly 7 miles south of the junction with the A75, or 4 miles south of Auchenmalg. There is a brown Historic Scotland sign, but nowhere to park next to the ruins. Find somewhere further along the road and walk back carefully along the grass verge. The postcode will take you to the general area on a satnav.