Arundel Cathedral, St Nicolas' Church, Arundel Castle (Fitzalan Chapel in Arundel Castle), West Sussex

A major stopping point on the Old Way pilgrim route to Canterbury, and home to a Reformation martyr’s shrine in the Roman Catholic cathedral

Highlights:

• Cathedral: shrine of Philip Howard
• St Nicholas’ Church: view to Fitzalan Chapel, medieval wall paintings
• Fitzalan Chapel (in Arundel Castle): former grave of St Philip Howard, disputed relics of St Edmund

A famous Reformation saint lies buried in the Catholic Arundel Cathedral, St Philip Howard. Recognised as a martyr for holding out against the reforms of Elizabeth I, his shrine was installed here in 1971 and is now a place of pilgrimage. It is on the left at the end of the nave, in the north transept. The metal railing around his shrine is decorated with images of palm leaves, the traditional symbol for martyrs. He was a Catholic, imprisoned in 1585 for attempting to leave the country without permission, and charged with high treason. The queen wrote to him telling him he would be freed and all his property restored if he would just go to an Anglican church and take communion. His reply left little doubt: “Tell Her Majesty, if my religion be the cause for which I suffer, sorry I am that I have but one life to lose.” He died in 1595 and was immediately regarded as a martyr. It is certainly true that St Philip died in detention, but he wasn’t actually executed. He contracted dysentery after spending 10 years in prison and died on 19 October. He was originally buried in the Tower of London, but his remains were moved to Arundel 29 years later and buried in the Fitzalan Chapel at Arundel Castle (see overleaf). He was canonized by the Catholic church in 1970 as one of the Forty Martyrs of England and Wales. His relics were then translated into their current shrine. The cathedral was given a joint dedication to St Mary and St Philip Howard. The building itself was opened as a Catholic parish church in 1873 and converted to Cathedral status in 1965, the seat of the Bishop of Arundel and Brighton. It lies on The Way of Our Lady of Consolation.

St Nicholas’ Church

St Nicholas’ Church is a minute’s walk from the cathedral. It is physically connected to the story of the Fitzalan’s struggles in a unique fashion: this building is divided into two halves by the Holy Door metal gate. On one side is the regular parish church of St Nicholas, while on the other is the private Fitzalan Chapel, part of Arundel Castle. Though you can peer through the gate, it is a long walk around to actually enter this chapel through the castle grounds (see below). St Nicholas’ Church has fragments of two wall paintings surviving in the north aisle, though they are indistinct. The church was mostly built in 1380. It was originally a single monastic building, split in two at the Reformation when the Earl of Arundel bought the chancel area from Henry VIII.

Fitzalan Chapel (in Arundel Castle)

The gates between the parish church and the castle’s chapel are opened for very rare joint services only. The chapel merits a visit in its own right, though you need to buy tickets for Arundel Castle to enter it. In addition to once housing the tomb of St Philip Howard, it is also home to one of the most controversial sets of relics in modern times. These supposedly belong to St Edmund, the former patron saint of England who was venerated at Bury St Edmunds in Suffolk.

The guides in the chapel were surprised when I asked for the shrine of St Edmund. They had never heard anyone take the claim about these relics seriously, even in such a bastion of Catholic faith as Arundel. However, there are a few who passionately believe in these relics. The reliquary sits in a side room, through a small doorway in the opposite wall as you enter the main chapel. This room is just large enough to house two tomb chests, and in the far corner is a small metal box, a bit like a sealed wastepaper basket. It has no markings visible in the gloom, and no sign or other marker anywhere nearby. Even the relics’ owners don’t seem to take the claim that seriously. But there is at least an explanation for how St Edmund supposedly came here. According to this version, his relics were stolen by the French in 1217 and kept in Toulouse. These bones were returned to England in 1901, destined for the new Westminster Cathedral, but so much doubt was raised about their authenticity that they were never enshrined. They have remained at Arundel ever since – and remain the focus of debate too. Having the relics formally examined and dated would be the only way to resolve the matter, should the Catholic church wish to put an end to claims and counterclaims. A small fragment was taken from Arundel to Bury St Edmunds in the 1960s and is kept in the Catholic Church of St Edmund.

Directions

Arundel Cathedral, London Road, Arundel BN18 9BN

www.arundelcathedral.org

W3W: duos.masts.acoustics

GPS: 50.8554N 0.5592W

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St Nicholas’ Church, London Road, Arundel BN18 9AT

www.stnicholas-arundel.co.uk

W3W: with.visual.unearthly

GPS: 50.8558N 0.5574W

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Arundel Castle, Mill Road, Arundel BN18 9AA

www.arundelcastle.org

W3W: changes.curls.product

GPS: 50.8546N 0.5523W

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Arundel Cathedral is open daily. For St Nicholas’ Church turn right when you leave the cathedral and it is on the opposite side of the road after 100m. It is open daily 9 am–5 pm. Though this church adjoins the Fitzalan Chapel, the entrance to the castle is at the other end of town, at the bottom of the steep hill. The ticket office sells a range of entry options. You only need the cheapest ticket if you simply want to see the chapel – since all tickets give access to it – but the castle has plenty else to enjoy. The chapel is on the left as you walk uphill, outside the castle itself. It is open 10 am–5 pm from 1 April to 1 November Tues–Sun, plus Mondays during August and some holidays Mondays.