Wye to Canterbury

0-50 miles, 1-Day Pilgrimages, England (S)

Not everyone has the time to make a multi-day pilgrimage. So the BPT is developing a series of 1-day micro-pilgrimage routes that offer a pilgrimage taster experience for people whose busy schedules can spare less time. These routes encapsulate the best of British pilgrimage, and our volunteers are working to extend this range of routes. We aim to develop multiple 1-day pilgrimage routes to each cathedral in Britain over the next 18 months.

But first on the list…is Wye to Canterbury.

WYE TO CANTERBURY (12.5 miles)

 

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Contains Ordnance Survey data © Crown copyright and database right 2015

Wye is a large village in East Kent, sitting approximately 13 miles away (as the pilgrim treads) from the great cathedral of Canterbury. Travel to the train station on the Western edge of Wye, and enter Wye by crossing the same River Stour you will follow later when nearing Canterbury.

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A classic English vision – St Gregory and St Martin

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The Eastern Wall – the holier side?

Your 1-day pilgrimage begins at the church of St Gregory and St Martin in Wye, whose wooden Medieval Nave contrasts strangely with its pastel Stuart Chancel. Follow the footpath behind the Church, and walk the long straight track toward the Downs beyond the village. Then ascend the Wye Downs, a gentle and warming climb through the woods.

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Straight path toward the hills – just outside Wye

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Up and into the woods – first ascent of Wye downs

High on the chalk downs you’ll meet the Wye Crown, a famous chalk carving by the village’s erstwhile Agricultural College. Here you can expect astonishing views of East Kent. Though your day’s walk has barely begun, it is worth opening the thermos to sit awhile in contemplation.

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A small Kentish forever – view from Wye Downs

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Over the top of the world – Wye Downs

Then you delve into wooded tracks, along wide fields and ancient rutted passages. Such pathways have not really changed in hundreds of years. It is easy to imagine the tread of pilgrims long-past walking beside you.

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Hollowed by the tread of many – Collyerhill wood

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Rural superhighways – Crundale Downs

 

Another climb takes you to the Church of Crundale, seemingly situated in the middle of nowhere, but in fact democratically equi-distant from five local manor houses. This small but beautiful Church certainly deserves a song. It is wonderfully open, with a toilet and a tap. And two Yew trees outside, greeting all-comers.

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Small, open and delightful – Crundale Church

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Ancestor tree at Crundale

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Contains Ordnance Survey data © Crown copyright and database right 2015

 

 

After two hundred metres along a very quiet country lane, you re-enter the woods. We have avoided road walking on this route, but this short stretch is so beautiful and quiet you can almost forget – despite the fact that  it was once a busy Roman highway.

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Look both ways…country lanes from Crundale

You next cross a valley on a footpath you can follow with your eye for almost a mile. The etymological root of the word pilgrimage – ‘per ager’, meaning simply ‘through the fields’ – never seemed truer.

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Follow the path to Canterbury – near Sole Street

This leads to a Yew and Beech studded track, which today is a by-way, so at certain times of the year people apparently drive vehicles here. But do not worry, you’ll hear them coming a very long way off and have plenty of trees to side-step behind…

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Beware of traffic? Into Barton Wood

At the top of this track, you enter the great woods of Eggringe, Denge and Pennypot, quiet, deep and wonderful.

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Dark and Ongoing – Denge Woods

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Beneath the Birches – Pennypot Woods

You pass through various areas of Birch, Chestnut, Pine and mixed growth. The woodland can seem unending. Just before the only small lane you’ll meet, the track passes between two large tumuli. Like guardians on each side, these Bronze Age burial mounds deserve a respectful greeting in order to guarantee safe passage.

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Kings beneath the hill – Eggringe Wood

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Contains Ordnance Survey data © Crown copyright and database right 2015

The woods continue for some miles, and you may forget that Kent is the most populous county in Britain. But eventually trees end, and you find yourself on a small road, from which you soon leave to cut across a farm. The field rises into Shalmsford Street, a linear village which you are going to entirely skirt via a long back-alley shortcut.

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Rising to the path – Shalmsford Street

The alleyway takes you to a road leading to Chartham, a classic old English village with a Green featuring red phone box and Tudor houses. But equally typical is its sadly locked Church, the otherwise wonderful St Mary’s. If you have time, chase down the keyholders from a phone number displayed on the porch door.

The village green The pub, The Artichoke, is 15th Century classic and well worth a quick stop. But don’t linger, for you have miles yet to tread…

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St Mary’s Chartham, a village temple sadly locked

From Chartham you follow water. The long straight track along the River Stour is a different world, full of people, children on bicycles and dog-walkers all saying hello. Be sure not to miss the bridge that backtracks you past the Church at Milton. And do be sure to take the green underpass to avoid crossing the A28 road. You are now approaching Canterbury, so traffic is an unfortunate reality. There’s not huge volumes, but after the deep quiet of the woods, everything can seem busy and loud.

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The Great Stour at dusk

Enjoy the calm light reflected from the wide fishing lakes on your left, ex-quarry sites. You will first see Canterbury Cathedral, your destination, somewhere along this stretch, so keep your eyes open, and stop to appreciate the moment when you do. This is your Mount Joy, first sighting of the distant end…

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Distant goals shine brightly

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Contains Ordnance Survey data © Crown copyright and database right 2015

Follow the river all the way into the Westgate park, past the wonderfully fat Chinese Plane Tree, and out to the West Gate itself, England’s largest surviving Medieval gate, a survivor from the Old Wall of Canterbury. The City Council almost voted to destroy this in order to allow access to Circus Elephants some 100 years ago – no joke – but thankfully the motion was slimly outvoted.

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England’s oldest city gate – Westgate

Pilgrims, you are now within the city of Canterbury. Your first Church on the left is St Peters, where many refugee Huguenot weavers are buried. Your next holy place, as you cross the River Stour, is the Undercroft of Greyfrairs on your right. This costs pennies to enter, and you can see the great stone floors on which pilgrims used to sleep. We are working on restoring it to its original purpose…but for now it remains a quiet tourist attraction. If you have carried a Pilgrim Staff on this journey – and you really should have done – now is a good time to release it to the river, and let it continue on its own pilgrimage to the sea.

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Discard your staff here – The Weavers over the Stour

Then comes Canterbury Cathedral, Mother Church of the Anglican Communion. If you are early, and they are still charging on the door, simply say you are a pilgrim and wish to pray. You can still donate later, as you wish. Be sure to walk the Cloisters, sing in the Chapter House, light a candle in the Crypt, and kneel where the Shrine to Beckett once stood. The stairs ascending are worn by the countless millions of pilgrims who have gone before.

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Up close and intense…Anglia Mater

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A stoney underworld…the Cloisters

And now your pilgrimage is complete. Evensong usually begins at 5:30 pm, but check the Choral Evensong website and/or the Canterbury Cathedral Music List for more details. If you are early, tell staff at the gate you are a pilgrim hoping to pray, and they will waive the entry fee. You can still contribute financially if you so wish. Evensong is a short service of music and prayer that is performed by the Cathedral choir or a visiting guest choir. Hearing 20 voices in perfect practised praise within this great stone miracle of a building is simply astonishing for the body and soul, especially after a long day of striving to arrive, when you are enrobed with the fatigue of journey. Prepare to be moved.

And then, homeward. The very best food in town is either at Deesons, very close to the Cathedral, or the Goods Shed, by Canterbury West Train Station (the one with the fast trainline to London). Both are very good, you’ll want to book ahead. You deserve a treat.

Don’t forget to take this journey home, perhaps by spending some time contemplating what you learned and found. Writing or painting can be good tools for processing a journey on foot. And above all, tell people about it – to pass the blessing on…

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